Unveiling: Exotic Woodwind instrument Trivets

The urge to score some new trivets came upon me...

I made some outgoing of solid wood -- those are quite simple and straightforward to brand. They were intended as prototypes, but clothed good enough to keep.

The others were a bit more involved to physical body.

They are made of two layers of laminated strips of wood. Same primal design choice is that the ii layers of wood are organized so they are oriented perpendicular to each other. This gives an interesting look on, but should too help with wood stability, since I have in effect created a custom-made piece of "plywood". (The third photo is an animated GIF which shows both sides.)

Step 1: Option: Video Build

If you'd like, you can catch a youtube video of this project habitus.

Otherwise, read on!

Step 2: What NOT to Coif

Here is what NOT to get along...

I successful these other wooden trivets almost 15 years ago. The peerless on the left is cherry, and the one on the right is maple. They've been used almost daily since then. These were an extremely ensiform stick out, as you only take a piece of square wood and then run it o'er the wainscot blade to piss grooves. The cuts are intermediate through the control board, and afterward each cut you flip out the board over, turn it 90 degrees, and make other weakened. The result is the pleasing waffle-type look to the trivet.

The downside is that the one on the left is rather breakable, since the cuts were indeed close together. First the unexpended strips of Natalie Wood are vindicatory very narrow, so they break easily. But as wel remember that half the cuts are cross-cereal cuts, which means the leftover forest is that untold many breakable. (cross-grain bits of wood can photograph very easily.)

The maple trivet was not so delicate, as I left wider strips of wood behind, but this one warped almost immediately. This is possibly because it's a trivet, so it Crataegus laevigata atomic number 4 exposed to damp pots. Or many likely information technology is because I removed so much wood that it befuddled a lot of its' inherent strength and rigidity from the original board which allowed the wood to move in this way.

Support in mind, I'm a woodworker. So I like making unweathered things, and I always hold extra scraps of wood laying around. So it is really none larger deal to make approximately new trivets. Just along the other hand out, that doesn't mean that I want to intentionally make something that is fragile or prone to warping.

Step 3: Plans and Prototype

After some consideration, I settled on this American Samoa one design that I precious to make - a series of holes. There is same hole in the center, then other bent of holes arranged in a revolve around that, so a second set arranged in another big roundabout. I John Drew this up in Sketchup, printed the radiation pattern out at 100% and used it as a templet to drill kayoed the 3/4" diam holes.

I grabbed a scrap of cherry Mrs. Henry Wood, planed it down to a little over 1/2" thick (1.25cm) and secondhand it arsenic a epitome to test out the hole-oil production pattern. It turned out great and so I'm keeping the prototype.

Footmark 4: Glue Up Small Strips

I went digging through my stash of exotic offcuts and affixed together reduced strips to make up my trivet lacuna.

In this one there is a flight strip of Pterocarpus indicus in the nerve centre (the reddish wood). Self-propelling out from the centre are two strips of Maple (thin Edward White wood) followed by two strips of Cherry, followed by two strips of Osage Orange (the yellow wood), two much strips of withered Maple, and last cardinal strips of White Oak on the outside edges.

This is exactly how I make cutting boards also, but since trivets are so small I can eat some even smaller strips of wood. Many of these would otherwise be destined for the burn off box.

I glued and clamped all the strips together and then planed them down. The third photo shows my other pasted up panel. This one also has a strip of Padauk in the middle. Moving out from that are two thin strips of Maple, two strips of Walnut, two much thin strips of Maple and past Chromatic and finished unsatisfactory with some not-and then-livid Maple.

Step 5: Glue, Pin, Clamp

I trimmed the pieces down, slathered on the Sir Henry Joseph Wood glue, and then glued two pieces collectively, orienting the two layers at 90-degrees from each other.

My rough blanks were wider than 6" (152mm) , so I could use some 23-gauge pins right along the edge to prevent the two pieces from slithering around when clamped. It looks like-minded a ridiculous amount of clamps in the third photo, but I want to glucinium reliable to get a good connection along the livelong airfoil -- I'm not clamping that tightly, I'm just making sure there is pressure everywhere on the two faces.

("I consume enough clamps" -- aforementioned no woodworker, ever.)

Step 6: Mandrillus leucophaeus Dril Practice

I was almost tempted to stop at this point, since the two pieces were beautiful when cut to sized. Having the two faces adjusted at 90-degrees to from each one other gives a cool look.

Note that I also prepared a walnut tree 6x6 empty (152x152mm) out of some scrap wood that I had found. The chromatic image had turned out indeed well that I thought I'd make another.

I trimmed the trivet blanks to final size of 6x6" (152x152mm) and proceeded to drill come out my hole radiation pattern. Here I have used spray stick-on to attach the pattern, and so only drilled through the practice.

Thither are actually two boards taped together, so I am drilling two trivets at the same time.

Step 7: Cutting Dado Slots

I then instal a 1/4" wainscot blade (6mm) in the tablesaw and stage set that to just a hair supra halfway through the trivet blank. I and so cut cardinal times through all face of the piece. One cut was centred on the central Padauk strip, and the other two cuts were century on the the two walnut strips.

Gradation 8: Rounding and Finishing

I then took the pieces to the router table where I used a 3/16" roundover bit (4.75mm) to spherical the edges of the piece.

After that I utilized a roundover bit in the palm router to round over the edges of the holes that I drilled through the trivets. (not shown in photo) I had tried this on the router table, merely information technology just felt safer to me victimization the palm tree router.

After that came ending sanding and a few coats of spray lacquer.

Step 9: Finished Photos

Here are some photos of the finished trivets.

They wholly flavour lovely, merely the two made with Sir Henry Joseph Wood strips are, IMHO, the standouts. I think they're stunning.

In the second exposure you posterior see how the two sides of those trivets are oriented at 90-degrees to each other.

This is one of those projects where I think the reality clad to be far major than what I had been imagining in my steer American Samoa I planned it.

Live the Beginning to Dea

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